We are sorry to hear your Ultra Bionic Blaster isn't working as expected. Watch the video below or continue reading for all troubleshooting tips.
First, here are some tips for using your blaster:
Tip 1: After every shot, the release the trigger quickly and completely to allow the cylinder to fully return to its starting position. If you try to fire too quickly or do not fully release the trigger between shots, then the cylinder is unable to properly reset and fire the next shot.
Tip 2: If the trigger is too difficult to squeeze, you may need to use two hands.
Tip 3: Make sure the darts are inserted all the way into the dart holders.
Tip #4: Make sure that there are no kinks or sharp bends in any of the tubing, as this can limit airflow through the tube and prevent the dart from being fired. If any tubes are bent, remove it from the blaster, flip it around, and reinstall it. You may need to rotate the tube around until the bend is straightened out.
If you are still having trouble with your blaster after using these tips, move on to Check #1 to start the troubleshooting process.
Engineering is all about figuring stuff out! Have fun discovering the inner workings of the Ultra Bionic Blaster! If you've lost or broken any part, or you need extra guidance, please contact tech support.
Check #1: Remove the C2 top rail shown in manual step 71 (video) and make sure that the green E4 pin is pressed all the way in and through the piston rod. If there is a gap exposing the piston rod as shown in the photo on the right, continue to Fix #1. If E4 is placed correctly, continue to Check #2.
Fix #1: Remove the E4 pin and slide the cylinder forward until it is flush with the rail as shown in manual step 56, then reinsert the E4 pin. You may need to push the piston rod out slightly to line up the holes for the pin. Now test your blaster, if it still does not fire, proceed to Check #2.
Check #2: Check that both E7 tracks are seated all the way back and in contact with the purple D1/D2 spring rods. If there is a gap between the E7 and the rod as shown in the picture on the right, continue to Fix #2. If the tracks are already placed correctly, proceed to Check #3.
Fix #2: Undo manual step 67 to remove subassembly G from the front of the blaster (video). C5 from step 69 will remain attached to subassembly G. Then remove the E7 tracks. Make sure that all burrs have been removed from the end of the E7 tracks. Complete step 65 and make sure that the E7s slide all the way back to touch the purple spring rods (D1 & D2), and the teeth mesh with the gears below. If the teeth do not perfectly mesh when slid all the way back, continue to Check #3. If the teeth mesh completely and slide all the way back, complete manual steps 66 and 67. Test the blaster. If it still does not work, proceed to Check #3.
Check #3: Now let's make sure that the wrist assembly gears are in alignment.
Check 3.1: With subassembly G removed and the E7 tracks slid all the way back into the purple D1/D2, the E7 teeth should mesh completely with the gear without being forced to fit. If the E7 teeth are not completely meshed and look like the picture on the left, then the gears are out of alignment, and you need to proceed to Fix #3.
Check 3.2: The line in the center of both E3 gears should be aligned vertically as in the second photo. If the line is not in a completely vertical position, then the gear is misaligned, and you need to proceed to Fix #3.
Check 3.3: When the blaster is in resting position, the sliders on subassemblies B and C should be slid all the way down. if there is a gap at the bottom, then the sliders are misaligned, and you need to proceed to Fix #3.
Check 3.4: When the blaster is in resting position, the trigger on subassembly A should be all the way forward. If there is a gap, then the trigger is misaligned, and you need to proceed to Fix #3.
Check 3.5: With subassembly G and the E7 tracks removed, squeeze the trigger and observe how the gears and axle move. Everything should move smoothly and the trigger should easily slide back into place. If the the movement is not smooth, or the squeeze trigger get stuck, the is an issue with the gears, and you need to proceed to Fix #3.
If any of these parts are misaligned, proceed to Fix #3. If all parts are aligned correctly, proceed to Check #4.
Fix #3: Work backward from manual step 64 to step 59 in order to remove subassemblies A, B, and C.
Once disassembled, pull and release the trigger on subassembly A. It should freely spring back into place, if it does not, it will need to be opened and reassembled (manual steps 1 through 3).
Next, test the sliders in subassemblies B and C to make sure that they slide freely up and down. If they get stuck or do not slide smoothly, they will need to be disassembled and realigned (manual steps 4 through 11). Makes sure that all burrs have been removed from the internal gears and wheels shown in steps 5 and 9.
Lastly, use your hands to spin the axle and gears shown in manual step 57. If they do not spin freely, undo steps 58 and 57 to remove the E3 gears. Make sure to remove all burrs from these gears, then complete steps 57 and 58 and ensure the axel now spins freely.
Once all parts are found to be in working condition, complete steps 59 through 64 to reassemble the wrist support. During reassembly, ensure that both the E1 and E3 gears are in a vertical position (Check 3.2). When you are reinstalling subassemblies A, B, and C, make sure the sliders on subassemblies B and C are all the way down (Check 3.3) and the trigger is pulled all the way out on subassembly A (Check 3.3).
After completing step 64, test the trigger. The trigger, sliders, and axles should all freely spin and spring back together. If there is any resistance, return to Fix #3 and ensure all burrs have been removed from internal parts. If the test is successful, continue on.
Complete manual step 65 and ensure that both E7 tracks are slid all the way back and mesh completely with the gears beneath without force. If they still look like the right picture in Check 3.1, return to Fix #3 and realign the E3 gears. If the E7 tracks properly mesh with the gears, complete manual steps 66 and 67 to reattach subassembly G.
Once fully assembled, test the blaster. If it still does not fire the darts, proceed to Check #4.
Check #4: If your blaster is making the popping sound, but not firing darts, there may be an issue with the A18 air wheel that you installed in manual step 26. If this is the case, proceed to Fix #4. If your blaster is not making the popping sound at all, proceed to Check #5.
Fix #4: Follow the steps in the video to access and reinstall the air wheel.
Check #5: If the blaster does not fire at this point, then the issue lies within the cylinder.
Watch this video for a demonstration on how to remove the cylinder, or continue reading.
To access the cylinder, first, remove subassembly G and both E7 tracks from the front of the blaster and detach the tubes from the cylinder. Then work backwards from manual step 56 to step 51 to remove the cylinder and subassembly H. Set aside the purple D1/D2 spring rods and the two B10 springs shown in steps 31 and 32, then remove the 4 screws that secure the A12 cover shown in step 23. Lastly, remove the piston and the spring shown in steps 21 and 22.
Check 5.1: The spring should be fully inserted into the piston. If the spring is unable to be fully inserted as in the photo on the left, then the A13 piece has been installed upside-down. If A13 is upside down, proceed to Fix 5.1. If the spring is fully inserted as in the picture on the right, proceed to Check 5.2.
Fix 5.1: If A13 is upside-down, follow the steps in the video to remove the piston cylinder and A13, and reinstall them correctly.
Check 5.2: Remove the spring and make sure that subassembly E is securely attached to subassembly D. If subassembly E is easily removed, proceed to Fix 5.2.
Fix 5.2: Complete manual step 20 and make sure subassembly D and E hook together securely, if they do not, try rotating subassembly E by 180° to hook the two together. Once secure, follow steps 21 through 23 to reassemble the cylinder, paying special attention to the orientation of the subassembly E slot and the tab on A12 during steps 21 and 22. Proceed to Check #6 before reattaching the cylinder to the blaster.
Check #6: In order to make sure the cylinder is ready to be reinstalled, turn to page 19 of the manual and complete cylinder tests A and B (video). When the cylinder is correctly installed, you should be able to lift the piston out of the cylinder, and it should spring back into place once released.
During test B, if you slide the B7 back and forth slowly along A11, you should be able to observe how the air wheel spins as the B7 catches the blades of the wheel. This is how the blaster rotates through the three dart holders, allowing you to shoot all three darts! If you can easily move the B7 back and forth 4+ times, then the air wheel is working properly and you can complete test B as shown in the manual and then proceed with the reassembly. If the B7 gets stuck, or it moves past the air wheel blades without spinning, the B7 and/or the air wheel blades may be damaged. If this is the case, contact email@example.com for additional assistance and replacement parts.
After the cylinder test has been successfully completed, add the purple D1/D2 and E10 springs to the cylinders and complete manual steps 51 – 56 to reattach the cylinder to the blaster. Replace the E7 tracks and slide them all the way in to contact the purple spring rods, and then reattach subassembly G to the front and the tubing and C2 rail to the cylinder.
Now that everything is in place, you should have a fully operational Ultra Bionic Blaster! Identifying potential problems and their solutions is an important part of the engineering process! Consider yourself a troubleshooting professional!
If you've reached the end of this guide and your blaster still doesn't work, first pat yourself on the back for your perseverance, and then please contact firstname.lastname@example.org. We will be glad to assist you!